My 76 Eleganza II build

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JodyPackerfan

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Feb 2, 2020
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Racine, Wisconsin
All hooked up and working like a charm. About 1/20th the noise of old OEM, the amp draw is manageable and the tank pressures to 120psi in about 15 seconds. It took a lot of fabricating and calculations but I'm glad I did it. Now onto a very very small air leak in one valve of the 4 bag system. It takes about 5 days to squat but I want bullet proof - ha ha good luck right
 
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Mike_H

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Oct 3, 2019
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Grand Rapids, MI
mikehiler.wixsite.com
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JodyPackerfan

Active member
Feb 2, 2020
173
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Racine, Wisconsin
4000 UV.jpgbutyl tape.jpgI used a combination of butyl tape & 3M UV 4000. I spoke with a 3M chemist and he said 3M 4000UV was the best "over all" for roof applications . I put the new tape right where it was originally then a thick bead of 4000UV above the tape - probably overkill but I'm allergic to mold so I'm going to all lengths to keep coach dry :) The real key is getting the rail completely seated into the groove. In my case it took A LOT of work because they did such a cruddy job when they manufactured it.
 
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JodyPackerfan

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Feb 2, 2020
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Racine, Wisconsin
Sorry i forgot to mention, it is WAY easier to seat in the rail when the surface & butyl is warm. I was in a pole barn that I couldn't get over 60f, but in a perfect world I'd shoot for 80's or 90's - the butyl would be more pliable and you could probably feel the groove better
 

Mike Perez

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Oct 2, 2019
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View attachment 3013View attachment 3014I used a combination of butyl tape & 3M UV 4000. I spoke with a 3M chemist and he said 3M 4000UV was the best "over all" for roof applications . I put the new tape right where it was originally then a thick bead of 4000UV above the tape - probably overkill but I'm allergic to mold so I'm going to all lengths to keep coach dry :) The real key is getting the rail completely seated into the groove. In my case it took A LOT of work because they did such a cruddy job when they manufactured it.
So the butyl tape goes on the inside upper part of the rail and then you seal the gap where the rail meets the roof? Do I have that correct?
 
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JodyPackerfan

Active member
Feb 2, 2020
173
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Racine, Wisconsin
F90B045C-E1B8-4F07-90EA-8C76CC828057_1_105_c.jpeg294CE461-8994-4B95-B4F4-168DB17027A2_1_105_c.jpegFEB2650C-DCA6-4A41-915D-077F115D5D48_1_105_c.jpegEA81ADFA-A771-4874-A754-29B1BBA02E9C_1_105_c.jpegDC77AFCC-6BE5-47F1-A397-22775987924A_1_105_c.jpegforgot to post anything on the wiring of the front end. Installed two compressors and wanted fresh wiring everywhere up there. Soldered all connections and used shrink sleeves to seal. I used all of the correct colors (and sizes) so the next owner or his wrench guy doesn't have a hard time :)
 
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JodyPackerfan

Active member
Feb 2, 2020
173
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Racine, Wisconsin
IMG_8320.JPGIMG_8325.JPGIMG_8321.JPGOne of my coaches previous owners must have been a real character. Oil and coffee cans for heat ducting and light rated extension cords as house wiring. I can now say without any reservation that what very little has actually been done to this coach it has been done VERY poorly
 

pvfjr

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Oct 4, 2019
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Aumsville OR
I dig the tin can HVAC couplers, and would have no problem leaving them if they did the job. The wiring though...yikes. I had a similar nightmare in my other RV. The daisy-chained outlets had started burning and creating an open circuit. The brilliant PO made a double ended male extension cord (that should never exist) and plugged it into the last "good" outlet, then ran it outside through the floor and up to the fridge outlet to re-energize it. Talk about a hack job--reminds me of what you're looking at.