Advice - Front Suspension

tmsnyder

Active member
Oct 7, 2019
422
85
28
Buffalo NY
Todd,

What you write is not inaccurate, but is a significant understatement. Dave corrects the bearing fit in the knuckle by having spray welded, then he ID grinds it back to where it should have been to start with. This make the fit proper and the outer races do not circulate in the knuckle. If your hubs are worn, they get a similar treatment. As the bosses that the disc fastens to are usually not square and true to the centerline of the bearing, he corrects that. If he suspects anything is less than the best, that gets corrected as well.

Unfortunately, GMC designed and specified these coaches for a 15 year and something less than 100K service life. (That was about double of any production RV of the day.) If they had made many of the parts to the specifications Dave uses, we would have many fewer problems.

Matt

I'm not following, ...what parts do you think I understated?
 

Mike Perez

Active member
Oct 2, 2019
484
123
43
What's the approximate price?
Here's what I have from Dave.

Grind one knuckle bearing bore oversize, metal spray, grind to size $225.00

Grind one hub bearing & seal diameter Undersize, metal spray, grind to size $225.00

Drill and tap one knuckle for a grease fitting $30.00

Machine grease passages in one Timken bearing spacer $30.00

Purchase one Timken set #23 bearing & two seals $130.00

Timken Bearing only $100.00

Seals only $30.00

Paint, assemble hub, knuckle, rotor, bearing, and seals $30.00

Machine rotor $14.00

New Rotor
$112.00

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Agoogol

Member
Mar 3, 2020
102
21
18
Centennial CO
So with Bruce Hart's help, I got them out, now to ship to Mr. Lenzi.

Lower ball joints shot on both sides, bearing in passenger.

I should probably do bushings, but I just don't want to get into more right now.

Any words of wisdom on grinding and punching out rivets ball joints on lower control arm?

20200623_153751.jpg20200623_070543.jpg20200623_070554.jpg
 

Matt Colie

Active member
Oct 25, 2019
322
74
28
South East Michigan near DTW
Kevin,

With years of beating on old and often difficult to replace parts, I have a working plan for things like this.

Go after the headed rivet with a grinder and just keep grinding until a heat affected area shows up. Keep grinding until that blue area is even around the rivet. Now you have a smooth top and can see exactly where the center of the rivet is. You can drill in as far as you dare and keep up-sizing the drills until you break though somewhere. Then, put a punch in the hole and hit it hard.

Lower ball joints have another interesting thing. There are the two side bolts that are extremely important. They must be put in from the outside or they will interfere with the travel of the knuckle.

Matt
 

Agoogol

Member
Mar 3, 2020
102
21
18
Centennial CO
Thanks Matt, I will give it a go. I have an angle grinder, now to see if I have any metal grinding wheels left....Ordered the new ball joints today, so I should have plenty of time to try and test fit them before I get the assys back from Dave.
 

Matt Colie

Active member
Oct 25, 2019
322
74
28
South East Michigan near DTW
Kevin,

Three important things to remember:
1 - If the parts you are working on go bad, it can go real bad - FAST. (I have not published our whole story yet.)
2 - With the exception of Dave Lenzi, you cannot pay anybody to give as much attention to the work as you will.
3 - (This one is kind of gouche.) Everybody's shop time everywhere is 100$/hr+. This value will cover any tools you need to do the job right.

Matt - here if you need me.
 

Agoogol

Member
Mar 3, 2020
102
21
18
Centennial CO
Kevin,

Three important things to remember:
1 - If the parts you are working on go bad, it can go real bad - FAST. (I have not published our whole story yet.)
2 - With the exception of Dave Lenzi, you cannot pay anybody to give as much attention to the work as you will.
3 - (This one is kind of gouche.) Everybody's shop time everywhere is 100$/hr+. This value will cover any tools you need to do the job right.

Matt - here if you need me.
Matt -

I appreciate it. I accumulated many woodworking tools when my wife and restored our 1959 Shasta. That was a heck of a project, learned a lot, lot of trial and error, mainly with the wood and the framing, panelling, cutting, etc. But paid someone to do the serious work, installing new axle/springs/etc.

Here with the GMC, I am afraid of trial and error for obvious reasons. And it seems no one can work on them here locally in Colorado with much knowledge or experience. Thank goodness for Bruce, but he lives an hour away and is happy to share his experience, not charge me an arm and a leg.

Still, sometimes I feel as if I bit off more than I should have. Not a mechanic, don't have the facility to work on it and maybe its just not right for me. We'll see.
 

6cuda6

Active member
Oct 3, 2019
442
107
43
53
Ontario, Canada
Kevin take it from a mechanic with 35 years experience....your doing a fine job 👍. You have the aptitude, your willing to read, follow directions and your not afraid to ask a question so you'll get it fixed. Between the 2 GMC forums their is a ton of knowledge available, not always in agreement of course but hey, everyone has experiences to share that may help.

Don't feel bad, i know your pain.....i don't have a shop either unless you consider a gravel driveway ideal, all my real tools are a 3hr drive away and half the stuff i'm repairing seems like 2 steps forward and one back....but i keep reminding myself that its an adventure and if i had to pay someone to do this stuff i wouldn't have the cool GMC in my driveway. There are days when i question my sanity, then the wife and i will go for a nice drive with usually a to stop at the local RV place, look at a few new units, look at prices. This always makes me smile as i know the GMC in the driveway is 10 times the machine at a tenth of the cost......then i'm good again till something else comes along.:) Today was test the water system day.....but that's a whole new story... i think i need to go for a drive again :cry:.

Carry on my GMC Brother 🍻


Matt -

I appreciate it. I accumulated many woodworking tools when my wife and restored our 1959 Shasta. That was a heck of a project, learned a lot, lot of trial and error, mainly with the wood and the framing, panelling, cutting, etc. But paid someone to do the serious work, installing new axle/springs/etc.

Here with the GMC, I am afraid of trial and error for obvious reasons. And it seems no one can work on them here locally in Colorado with much knowledge or experience. Thank goodness for Bruce, but he lives an hour away and is happy to share his experience, not charge me an arm and a leg.

Still, sometimes I feel as if I bit off more than I should have. Not a mechanic, don't have the facility to work on it and maybe its just not right for me. We'll see.
 

Agoogol

Member
Mar 3, 2020
102
21
18
Centennial CO
Kevin take it from a mechanic with 35 years experience....your doing a fine job 👍. You have the aptitude, your willing to read, follow directions and your not afraid to ask a question so you'll get it fixed. Between the 2 GMC forums their is a ton of knowledge available, not always in agreement of course but hey, everyone has experiences to share that may help.

Don't feel bad, i know your pain.....i don't have a shop either unless you consider a gravel driveway ideal, all my real tools are a 3hr drive away and half the stuff i'm repairing seems like 2 steps forward and one back....but i keep reminding myself that its an adventure and if i had to pay someone to do this stuff i wouldn't have the cool GMC in my driveway. There are days when i question my sanity, then the wife and i will go for a nice drive with usually a to stop at the local RV place, look at a few new units, look at prices. This always makes me smile as i know the GMC in the driveway is 10 times the machine at a tenth of the cost......then i'm good again till something else comes along.:) Today was test the water system day.....but that's a whole new story... i think i need to go for a drive again :cry:.

Carry on my GMC Brother 🍻
Well, I removed and sent parts to Lenzi, and they are back here now. I will assist Bruce Hart in installing these new parts and pieces from Dave, lower ball joints and new shocks. Should tidy up the front end nicely if it all goes together correctly.

I need a grease gun. Looks like this may be best bang for the buck:

But I am wondering if there is much difference between them all, since this is something I haven't used in 30 years....Recommendations?
 

pvfjr

Active member
Oct 3, 2019
273
67
28
36
Aumsville OR
I'm sure the one in your link will work fine. I have a cheapie from HF that looks identical, and it has never given me any problems. I do sometimes wish I had a powered one, so I could save one hand for holding the hose onto the zerk at the correct angle. I counted 27 zerks on our "other" RV a few weeks ago.

Check your steering linkages for slop too. I just tightened up our other RV's handling quite a bit by slipping some new bronze bushings into one of the idler arm bell cranks. New parts were $1300, but I was able to get all the bushings for $8 each instead. That's money better saved for the GMC!
 

Matt Colie

Active member
Oct 25, 2019
322
74
28
South East Michigan near DTW
One place that I worked years ago, I had a air powered grease gun. This was a recipe for problems. They make the same noise pumping or not. I happened to notice that I did not see grease coming from the boot seal. When I got a two-hand gun on it, I discovered that it would not take grease.

I did have problems with the one I got from Hazard Fright. When load the second cartridge, the follower rod would not stay pulled. This made it real hard to reload and the grease that I use (Valvoline Syn-pro) costs almost as much as that grease gun.

Problem: Even when I got a good single hand grease gun, I still could not keep the coupler on the Zerk fitting. This is when I spent (well) the money on the Lock-n-Lube coupler. I see that AZ has another cheaper version. I can't tell you about that one.

Matt
 

Christo

Administrator
Staff member
Oct 4, 2019
251
68
28
Weymouth, MA
Well, I removed and sent parts to Lenzi, and they are back here now. I will assist Bruce Hart in installing these new parts and pieces from Dave, lower ball joints and new shocks. Should tidy up the front end nicely if it all goes together correctly.

I need a grease gun. Looks like this may be best bang for the buck:

But I am wondering if there is much difference between them all, since this is something I haven't used in 30 years....Recommendations?
I love this grease gun!: https://locknlube.com/collections/grease-guns/products/locknlube-pistol-grip-grease-gun
 
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